Hey there, fellow gardeners and small-scale farm owners! If you’ve ever found yourself staring at a pile of plastic garden netting wondering, “Wait, how much do I even need here?” trust me—you’re not alone. I’ve been supplying plastic garden netting for over a decade now, and let me tell you, nothing wastes more time or money than buying the wrong size netting. Too small, and you’ve got gaping holes where birds and pests sneak in. Too big, and you’re dealing with messy excess that tangles as soon as the wind picks up. Today, I’m breaking down exactly how to measure for plastic garden netting like a pro—no fancy tools or complicated math required, just real-world tips I’ve picked up working with everyone from backyard tomato growers to guys with 10-acre herb plots. Plastic Garden Netting
First off, let’s cut through the noise: not all netting is created equal, and your measurement needs will shift depending on what you’re covering. Wait, hold on—let’s start with the basics before we jump into specific projects. Most new folks skip this first step, and it’s why they mess up right away. Grab your notepad (or your phone’s notes app, no judgment) and write down three key things before you even pull out a tape measure: what you’re protecting (tomatoes? blueberries? a veggie patch? a small tree?), where you’re putting the netting (raised bed? row cover? fruit tree canopy?), and what you’re trying to block (birds? insects? deer? just keeping leaves out?). That last one matters because if you’re going after deer, you might need taller netting than if you’re just stopping aphids on your lettuce. I’ll circle back to that later, but for now, let’s get to the actual measuring.
Let’s start with the most common use case: raised garden beds. These are everywhere, so this is where most people learn their lesson the hard way. First, measure the length of the bed, then the width. Easy enough, right? Wait—don’t stop there. If you’re using netting to drape over the top of the bed, you need to account for overhang. Why? Because you’re not just laying netting flat on the soil—you need to tuck the edges under the frame or stake them down to keep critters from crawling under. I always tell people to add 6 inches to each side (so 12 inches total for width, 12 for length) for small beds. If your bed is, say, 4ft long by 2ft wide, that means netting needs to be 5ft long by 3ft wide. Wait, but what if you’re using hoops to make a tunnel over the bed? Oh, that’s another story—here, you’re not just measuring flat, because the netting has to wrap around the curved hoops. Let me explain: for hoops, first measure the length of the tunnel (how far you want it to stretch), then the height and width of the hoop. Take the hoop’s height from the ground to the top center, plus half the width of the hoop’s base (so if your hoop is 2ft tall and 3ft wide, that’s 2ft + 1.5ft = 3.5ft). Now, double that number—that’s the circumference around the hoop, because the netting has to cover both sides of the curve. So that hoop would need netting that’s 7ft wide, plus your 6 inches of overhang on each end? Wait no—wait, the length is still the length of your tunnel, and the width is the doubled measurement we just did, plus overhang on the sides if you’re tucking them down. Let’s do a quick example: a 6ft long tunnel with hoops that are 2ft tall and 3ft wide. Netting needs to be 6ft long (tunnel length) by 7ft (hoop circumference) plus 1ft total overhang, so 8ft wide. I’ve seen so many people buy netting that’s exactly the hoop circumference and get stuck because they can’t tuck the edges under. Pro tip: if you’re using heavier netting for deer, add an extra 6 inches on all sides to account for the weight pulling on the edges.
Next up, row covers for in-ground gardens, not raised beds. This is similar but a little trickier because the ground isn’t a neat frame. First, map out your row: measure how long the row is and how wide it is (from one end of the plants to the other). Now, if you’re going to stake the netting directly into the ground, you still want 6-12 inches of overhang on all sides to hold it down. But here’s the thing: if your row is super wide (like more than 4ft), you might need to use two pieces of netting and overlap them down the middle, or go with a wider roll. Wait—speaking of rolls: a lot of suppliers sell netting in bulk rolls, so if you’re covering multiple rows, measuring each row individually is better than just guessing how many rolls you need. Let’s say you have three 10ft long rows that are 3ft wide each. If you just multiply length by width, you get 90 sq ft, but add 1ft overhang on each side of each row, that’s 4ft wide per row, so 10×4=40 sq ft per row, times three is 120 sq ft total. If you buy exactly 90, you’ll be short on edges and end up with gaps. Another mistake here: people forget to account for when they need to access the plants (like for watering or harvesting). Wait, hold on—wait a second, do you need netting that’s permanent, or do you need to be able to lift it easily? That’s a whole other variable. If you’re going to unzip or lift netting often, you might want to go a little bigger so you have extra room to grab the edges without pulling the netting off the stakes.
Now, what about trees? Fruit trees are another big one—apple, blueberry, cherry, all of these need netting to keep birds from eating the whole harvest. Measuring for trees is different because they’re not flat beds. First, if your tree is small (like a dwarf blueberry bush or a young apple tree), you can measure the height from the ground to the top of the canopy, and the diameter of the canopy (the widest part across the top branches). Now, netting for trees needs to cover both the top and the sides, so you don’t need to wrap it around the trunk—wait, right, because the trunk is solid, pests can’t get through there, so you just need to drape netting over the top and down the sides. For small trees, add 1-2 feet to the canopy diameter so the netting hangs over the edges (keeps birds from landing on top and pecking through). For taller trees, if you’re covering the entire canopy, you have two options: either use a netting that’s wide enough to wrap around the canopy plus extra, or use multiple pieces sewn together (I can help with that, by the way). If your tree is really big (like a mature cherry tree), you might need to use vertical stakes to hold the netting away from the branches—so in that case, measure the height from the ground to the highest branch, plus the width of the tree, and add 2 feet on all sides for the stakes. I once had a guy with a 15ft apple tree who tried to use a 10ft wide netting—needless to say, half the canopy was uncovered, and he lost 80% of his apples to birds. Don’t be that guy.
Wait, what about specific netting types? Let’s touch on that quick, because this affects measurements too. If you’re using fine mesh netting for tiny pests like aphids or thrips, it’s lighter, so you don’t need as much overhang. But if you’re using heavy-duty netting for deer, which is thicker and stiffer, you need extra overhang because the weight will pull the edges tight—if you don’t add that, the netting will slip down and leave gaps. Also, if you’re using netting that’s UV-resistant (which you should, because regular plastic netting breaks down in the sun in a year or two), it’s a little stiffer too, so again, account for that extra width. I always recommend UV-resistant netting, by the way—trust me, it’s worth the tiny extra cost to not have to replace it every season.
Another common mistake people make: not measuring for openings. If you need to be able to get into your netting (like for harvesting berries), you have two options: either measure a specific opening (like a 2ft by 2ft flap) and add that to your total, or buy netting that’s big enough so you can cut an opening after you put it up (just make sure you have extra material nearby, otherwise the cut will leave you short). If you’re using zippers or hook-and-loop fasteners for the opening, make sure you measure the space for those too—you don’t want the zipper to be too short.
Wait, let’s do a quick example to tie this all together. Let’s say you have a raised bed for tomatoes, 6ft long by 4ft wide, using hoops to make a tunnel, and you need to cover it to keep tomato hornworms and birds out. Your hoop height is 3ft, so half the width is 2ft, so hoop circumference is 3 + 2 = 5ft, doubled for the curve is 10ft. Now, add 6 inches overhang on all ends of the tunnel (so each end gets 0.5ft, total 1ft added to length). So total netting needed is 6ft (tunnel length) + 1ft (end overhang) = 7ft length, and 10ft (hoop circumference) + 1ft (side overhang) = 11ft width. That makes sense, right? No guesswork, just numbers based on what you’re actually building.
Now, a few pro tips from someone who’s been in this game for years, to save you even more hassle. First, use a flexible tape measure, not a rigid yardstick—beds and hoops are curves, so a flexible one will give you way more accurate numbers. Second, write down all your measurements in feet and inches, not just square feet—square footage is good for bulk rolls, but linear measurements are better for individual projects. Third, if you’re between two sizes, always go up. It’s way easier to trim excess netting than to have to patch a gap because your netting is too small. Fourth, if you’re not sure, snap a photo of your space and send it to me (wait, no, don’t give contact info, but just say) – most suppliers, including us, will help you double-check your measurements for free. No strings attached, we just don’t want you to have to deal with a netting that doesn’t fit.
Wait, one more thing: what about if you’re using netting for something other than plants? Like keeping leaves out of a vegetable patch, or covering a pile of garden debris? The same rules apply—measure the length and width of what you’re covering, add 6 inches overhang on all sides, and if it’s a weird shape (like a round debris pile), measure the diameter across the widest part, then add 1ft all around. I had a customer last year who needed netting for a round compost pile—he measured the diameter as 8ft, added 2ft overhang, so netting that was 10ft across, and it fit perfectly. He said before that he was using tarps that kept blowing away in the wind.
Let’s wrap this up. The key takeaway here is: don’t just measure the space you’re seeing on the surface. Add overhang for tucking, account for curves if you’re using hoops, adjust for the type of critter or pest you’re blocking (heavier netting needs more overhang), and when in doubt, size up. I’ve seen so many people waste money on netting that’s too small, or too flimsy, because they skipped the extra measurements.
If you’re ready to pick up the right plastic garden netting for your space, I’m here to help. Whether you’re a first-time gardener just starting with a single raised bed, or a commercial grower covering acres of crops, we’ve got netting in all sizes, weights, and types to fit your needs. Just reach out, and we’ll walk through your project together to make sure you get exactly what you need—no more guessing, no more gaps, no more wasted time or money.
Now, quick note on that: I’ve been in this game long enough to know that measuring can feel like a chore when you’re excited to get your garden planted or your trees covered. But trust me, 10 minutes of measuring correctly saves you hours of frustration later. A few years back, I had a guy come back to me with a netting that was too small, and he said he spent three hours trying to stretch it over his blueberry bush, and ended up with half the berries gone because the netting kept slipping. That’s why I’m so big on getting the measurements right the first time.
Another thing to keep an eye on: the mesh size. If you’re targeting small pests like aphids, you need a smaller mesh (like 1/8 inch) that keeps tiny bugs out. If you’re just keeping birds out, a larger mesh (like 1/2 inch) works, and it’s lighter and cheaper. That doesn’t change how you measure, but it’s a good side note to make sure you’re picking the right netting for your goal.
Okay, let’s recap the steps to make this easy: 1. Note what you’re covering and what you’re blocking. 2. Measure length and width (or diameter for round things). 3. Add 6-12 inches overhang on all sides. 4. If using curves/hoops, double the (height + half width) for your width measurement. 5. Size up if you’re unsure. That’s it. No complicated formulas, no confusing jargon, just simple steps that work every time.
At the end of the day, plastic garden netting is all about protecting what you’ve worked hard to grow. Getting the right size means less stress, more harvest, and more time actually enjoying your garden instead of fixing mistakes. So do yourself a favor, take those extra 5 minutes to measure correctly, and you’ll be glad you did. If you need help picking out the right netting size or type, don’t hesitate to reach out for a consultation. We’re here to make your garden project go as smoothly as possible.
Plastic Black Garden Fence REFERENCES
- National Gardening Association. (2022). "Choosing and Using Garden Netting for Pest and Bird Control." NGA Home Gardening Guide.
- University Extension Service. (2021). "Measuring and Installing Row Covers for Small and Medium-Sized Gardens." State University Extension Publications.
- American Horticultural Society. (2023). "Best Practices for Measuring and Fitting Netting for Fruit Tree Protection." AHS Practical Gardening Series.
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